In , the Michelin brothers, who made tires in Clermont-Ferrand , wanted a way to up their sales. Lyon, squarely on the route between Paris and Nice , began to see more and more footfall. The largely women-run bouchons that had hitherto passed under the radar began to attract tourists and restaurant critics alike.
With the reputation for great food already in place, young chefs looking for cheaper digs than Paris flock here. No one quite knows how the praline first came to be pink, but the nutty, sticky praline the color of bubblegum in buttery brioche, is heaven.
Hands down, the best are the breakfast croques from Le Desjeuneur in Croix-Rousse, served daily. If you drink your coffee black, pretty much anywhere will serve you a decent espresso for little more than a euro. Un Brin de Folie has good coffee, but I love it for the atmosphere.
Although this is France, the crown for best pizzeria is hotly contended in any foodie city. The dough-to-sauce ratio is perfect. Chef Carla Kirsch Lopez somehow runs the kitchen and finds time to serve several dishes and chat with guests too.
Drink multiple margaritas. Another spot for a boogie, La Faute aux Ours , is busy regardless of the day of the week. La Cave des Dominicains Friday evenings only , may be the cheapest place to drink in the city. Run by monks in the cellars of their convent, the evening winds down with prayers for the pie-eyed students that frequent the bar. The croissant, like its close cousin, the pain au chocolat, is the quintessential Parisian breakfast.
