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Our new microguides series is inspired by the slow travel movement, encouraging travellers to relax their pace and take a deep dive into one particular neighbourhood in a well-loved city. Rather than a whirlwind itinerary which aims to hit up every must-see attraction, these compact, close-up guides encourage you to zone in, take your time and truly explore like a local.
Easily walkable, San Telmo runs north for nine blocks from Parque Lezama to the Malfada statue on Chile and eight blocks east from Piedras Street to the train track border with Puerto Madero. See a variety show of trapeze artists, acrobats, and hand balancers at quirky performance spot Circo del Aire. Shows usually happen on the weekend and can be booked through their Instagram account.
Like what you see? You can also take circus-skills classes in silks, lyra hoop tricks , and straps from Monday to Saturday enquire at circodelaire gmail. Here, hour-long trails weave through land inhabited by more than 2, species including turtles, lizards and dozens of native bird types. Most afternoons, you can catch a spectacular free tango performance right in the middle of Plaza Dorrego square. The high-ceilinged, elegant Mercado San Telmo sells everything from fresh fruit to vinyl, but most flock here for its food stands.
And, like a siren in a sea of hungry drunks, vendor Lo de Betty draws scores of late-night revellers to her humble empanada shop within its walls. Chat with a friend over a glass of wine or creamy pavlova in the breezy atrium and stay until the late afternoon. For food with funky music and a sense of humour, head to the back patio of convivial bar El Banco Rojo on Bolivar.
Weekly burger, taco, and empanada specials include meat and vegan options. The best part? Street musicians, lively debaters and many other characters surface here, especially on the weekends. Order a moderately-priced craft beer and the vegetarian tamale around 10pm, then see how the night unfolds. A rowdy San Telmo staple with bar staff who look like rock band extras.